Smoked Bossam (Whole Pork Belly)

In a medium mixing bowl, combine doenjang (3 tbsp), soy sauce (2 tbsp), kosher salt (2 tbsp), and black peppercorns (1 tbsp) into a thick paste. Rub this mixture aggressively into all sides of the pork belly (4.5 lbs), ensuring every crevice is coated in the savory soybean ferment. This step is critical for depth of flavor and tenderization; the salt and enzymes in the doenjang will work into the muscle fibers over time.

Place the seasoned belly into a large vacuum bag or glass dish. Press the halved garlic head (1 whole), sliced ginger (3 inches), and quartered onion (1 whole) directly against the meat's surface so the oils infuse during the rest. Seal or cover tightly and refrigerate for 12 hours. This long cure allows the salt to penetrate the fat and the aromatics to neutralize any gaminess in the pork.

Preheat your smoker to 250°F using a blend of apple and oak wood for a balance of sweetness and punchy smoke. Remove the belly from the refrigerator and discard the large chunks of ginger, onion, and garlic, but do not rinse the paste off the meat. Allow the belly to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes to take the chill off, which ensures a more even cook and prevents the fat from seizing.

Place the belly on the center grate fat-side up so the rendering fat bastes the meat. Smoke until the internal temperature reaches 195°F and a meat probe slides in with zero resistance, which typically takes 5 to 7 hours depending on the belly's thickness. You are looking for a deep mahogany bark that is tacky to the touch but not burnt; if the color gets too dark before 170°F, you can loosely tent it with foil.

While the pork smokes, prepare the spicy radish salad by tossing the julienned daikon radish (1 lb) with gochugaru (2 tbsp), fish sauce (1 tbsp), sugar (1 tbsp), grated garlic (2 cloves), and sliced scallions (2 whole). Massage the spices into the radish until it begins to release its liquid and soften into a vibrant red slaw. Let this sit at room temperature for at least 1 hour to develop the fermented 'funk' that cuts through the fatty pork.

Once the pork hits 195°F and is fork-tender, remove it from the smoker and let it rest on a cutting board for 20 to 30 minutes. This rest is non-negotiable as it allows the internal juices to redistribute, preventing a dry final product. While waiting, prepare your ssam station by arranging blanched napa cabbage leaves, ssamjang, sliced raw garlic, and fresh chilies on a large platter.

Using a very sharp knife, slice the belly across the grain into 1/4 inch thick pieces. Arrange the warm slices alongside the musaengchae radish salad and the cabbage wraps. To eat, place a slice of pork on a cabbage leaf, top with a generous spoonful of radish salad, a dab of ssamjang, and a slice of raw garlic; fold into a parcel and enjoy the perfect balance of smoke, spice, and fat.