Hot-Smoked Eel

Begin with 2 fresh eels (~1-1.5 lbs each) that have been cleaned and gutted. Scrub the skin under cold running water using a coarse cloth or salt to remove the natural slime layer, which can become bitter when smoked. If you are planning to hang-smoke the eels, ensure the heads are left on or the collar bone is intact to support the weight of the fish during the cook; otherwise, the eels can be smoked flat on a wire rack.

Combine 6 cups of water, 0.5 cup kosher salt, 2 tbsp brown sugar, 1 tbsp white peppercorns, and 2 bay leaves in a pot. Bring to a simmer to dissolve the solids and bloom the aromatics, then chill completely to below 40°F. Submerge the eels in the cold brine for 2 to 4 hours. The salt denatures the proteins in the lean muscle, helping them retain moisture, while the sugar balances the saltiness and aids in surface browning during the hot smoke.

Remove the eels from the brine and rinse them thoroughly in cold water to remove excess surface salt. Pat them completely dry with paper towels inside and out. Place the eels on a cooling rack in a cool, breezy spot or in front of a fan for 60 minutes. You are waiting for the skin to feel tacky and look slightly matte; this 'pellicle' allows smoke molecules to adhere uniformly rather than sliding off a wet surface.

Preheat your smoker to 180°F using alder or beech wood, which provides the traditional, mild smoke characteristic of Northern European delicacies. If hanging the eels, use 'S' hooks through the eyes or underneath the collar bone. Ensure there is enough space between the eels for air to circulate. If laying them flat, place them heart-side down on a well-oiled rack to prevent sticking.

Smoke the eels at a consistent 180°F. During the first hour, the heat will begin to render the heavy fats just beneath the skin. Monitor the internal temperature using a thin-probe thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat behind the head. You are looking for a firming of the flesh and a deep, copper-bronze transformation of the skin. Stay vigilant to keep the smoker temperature below 200°F to prevent the fat from rendering out too quickly, which would leave the meat dry.

Check for visual cues: the belly cavity should gape open slightly and the meat should feel resilient, not soft. Once the internal temperature reaches a food-safe 145°F, remove the eels from the smoker. This temperature ensures any pathogens are destroyed while the high collagen and fat content in the eel keep the texture succulent and dense.

Allow the smoked eels to rest on a wire rack at room temperature for at least 20 minutes before handling. This rest allows the rendered fats to slightly redistribute and firm up, making it much easier to separate the skin from the meat. For the most traditional flavor, many pitmasters prefer to let the eel cool completely or even chill it overnight, which allows the smoke profile to mellow and deepen.

To serve, make a shallow cut behind the head and use a pair of pliers or a dry cloth to peel the skin back toward the tail—it should come off in one or two large pieces. Lift the fillets away from the central bone. Serve on dense, buttered dark brown bread with fresh lemon wedges and a side of horseradish to cut through the intense richness of the smoked fat.